Beach hiking on Usedom - pure deceleration
I was able to try out for myself how great and decelerating it is, but also exhausting at the same time, on Europe's longest beach promenade on Usedom. Here you can hike for 12 kilometers from Świnoujście in Poland to Bansin, and you can even get to Koserow directly along the beach.
Most of the time I chose the path right along the beach: There is simply no better way to really clear your head than to have the smell of salt water in your nose and the wind in your hair accompanied by the sound of the waves. However, one should not underestimate how tiring it is to walk on sand, even if it is relatively trodden. So I only walked part of the way.
Detour to the imperial baths
Especially between Ahlbeck and Heringsdorf as well as in Bansin, a detour to the promenade and the towns is worthwhile: Because these are the so-called imperial baths with unique villas from the 19th century, some of which are even built especially on Lücke to accommodate their residents in the second row to allow the sea view. The resort architecture offers a charming contrast to the Polish city of Swinoujscie with its modern new hotel buildings.
Right on the Ahlbeck promenade, Uwes Fischerhütte conveys the flair of the fishing environment. Here the Krüger family, fishermen in the 6th generation, offer freshly caught fish from the Baltic Sea, oven-fresh smoked fish and fish rolls in different variations. You can also eat very well in the Fischkopp restaurant, which is located in Bansin about halfway between the beach and the train station.
Mountains and sea on the steep coast
Behind the end of Bansin rises the Lange Berg, the second highest point on the coast. While the beach below the steep bank is getting quieter and quieter, from above you have a phenomenal view of the entire beach.
From Bansin you hike on towards Ückeritz. The 4-kilometer-long natural campsite "Am Strand" runs directly behind the dune. In Ückeritz it is worthwhile to hike to the Achterwasserseite: the Café Knatter and the surf school on the Achterwasser in Ückeritz offer ideal conditions for surfing and kiting when the wind is blowing west.
Worth seeing hinterland
The landscape of the Loddiner Höft is also beautiful with its steep bank to the backwaters. The fish and grill restaurant Waterblick in Loddin delights its guests not only with the fantastic view of the Achterwasser, but also convinces with excellent Pomeranian fish specialties such as jellied fish in the style of Loddin, Loddin noble fish meatballs á la Chef or Loddiner frying pan.
In Koserow, a walk up the Streckelsberg is worthwhile. It is the highest point on the coast. From above you have a beautiful view of the Baltic Sea. A new pier with three wave-shaped curved elements is currently being built in Koserow. It is to be 290 meters long and three and a half meters wide and equipped with a 400 square meter platform at the bridgehead.
Good food and lots of rest
Idyllic places in the original, maritime Usedom are the listed Koserow salt works from the 19th century. They were used by the fishermen as salt stores during the herring season. You can eat fish or fish rolls very well in the Koserower salt huts. The fish freshly smoked on beech wood is particularly recommended.
Perhaps the quietest stretch of beach on the island is, however, further north between Trassenheide and Karlshagen. The forest just behind the dune is really remarkable with its extreme hills. The beach ends behind Karlshagen and gradually turns into a belt of reeds. That is quite attractive. From there you have a beautiful view of the Greifswalder Oie and Rügen.
Journey of discovery through the hinterland
In general, Usedom also offers many interesting hiking opportunities inland: In the Achterland, the Low German expression for hinterland, there is, for example, the idyllic village of Benz with its very original church and the Dutch windmill.
You can also hike around or cycle around the remote, almost idyllic and enchanted Lieper Winkel. The small towns of Liepe with the oldest church and the small fishing town of Warthe am Achterwasser are worth seeing. In the south, towards Stettiner Haff, the small town of Stolpe with the Stolpe Castle is worth seeing. Here, too, you can eat very well in the coach house.
Creative brewery in the moated castle
In the well-worth seeing moated castle Mellenthin with its own brewery you can take a nice break, eat waffles or something hearty and drink coffee or beer. In addition to the classics light & dark, other varieties such as Mellenthiner Weizen, Bock, Rauch, Schwarz and Alt or surprising creations such as beer with coffee, ginger or amber are on offer - as long as stocks last!
A beer with hemp, which the owner of the castle Jan Fidora calls Mellenthiner cannabis, has met with a great response. Another of our own creation, the cold-hopped wine "Wine & Hops", is very popular and not only convinces wine lovers. The latest achievement is an in-house still, in which fine fruit schnapps and a special type of whiskey are distilled.
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